Yesterday Little Bean and I went surfing at Del Mar. She had never done it before, and i haven’t surfed for three years, so my auntie booked us some lessons on the beach. It was great day for it as it was overcast, so the best place to be was in the sea if it was going to rain anyway (although my burnt shoulders from this morning will tell a different story).
Bikinis on, we headed down to the beach and met the instructor who made us don our wetsuits and practice on the boards on the beach for while before we hit the waves. It was slightly embarrassing to lie on the board and pretend to paddle while the ever so unbelievably good-looking instructor gave us tips on what to and what not to do, but hey, we embraced it.
And I hit the waves hard. i forgot about my fear of the deep sea, because I never go out that far, preferring to stick within boob depth so i can always touch the sea bed. I remembered it after getting a face full of a particularly high wave which knocked me flat on the way out. i proceeded to try to get up as wave after wave hit me in the face, until i started panic breathing and had to go have a sit down on the sand and have a little chat with myself. Little Bean thought i had had enough and didn’t want to surf anymore, but I just needed time to pull myself together. Pretty soon I got back in the water.
It’s not like riding a bike. if you haven’t surfed for few years then its like learning to walk again. I spent a large portion of the first half face down in the sand, but after i embraced the flow I felt a lot better. I surfed for about an hour (stopping to watch my little sister who took to it like a duck to water, and was absolutely fantastic). i was hampered slightly by running out of wave before i could stand up, but to do this i need to go deeper to get the distance, and i wasn’t happy to do that!
When I got home, soggy and cold, I bent over to pick something off the floor, and half the sea came gushing out of my nose. Gross!